To realize this project, I will create a gruesome disgusting installation with different materials, air pumps that is not beautiful, it is twisted and oppressive.
How has the historical use of the corset shaped perceptions of the female body, and what does this reveal about patriarchal control over women’s physical and psychological identity?
The theoretical framework for this study draws from feminist art theory, cultural studies, and gender performativity to explore how the corset and sculptural representations of women serve as tools of control and resistance in patriarchal societies.
The corset’s role in shaping and controlling the female body can be interpreted through the concept of the male gaze, a term introduced by Laura Mulvey in her essay "Visual Pleasure and Narrative Cinema" (1975). Mulvey suggested that traditional representations of women in art and media often reduce women to objects meant to be viewed by a male audience (Kokoli, 2013). Within this framework, the corset epitomizes conform to male desires, presenting them as passive and aesthetically pleasing according to patriarchal standards. The act of tightening and manipulating the female form to achieve an “ideal” figure reflects the boarder social control imposed on women’s bodies. The ‘ideal’ figure consists of but is not limited to features driven by fertility, such as youth for vitality, a rich bust for feeding, and wide hips for child-bearing; also features driven by aesthetics, such as a thin waist to contrast the bust and hip, pale skin symbols frail and innocent. Corset was only one of the contributing pieces to this “ideal” figure.
The Corset’s Evolution in Fashion and Society.
The origins of the corset can be traced back to the 16th century when it was initially worn by the European aristocracy. As a symbol of social status, conformity, and adherence to gendered ideals of femininity, the corset played a significant role (Crawford and Guernsey, 1951, Steele, 2001). During the Victorian era, the practice of corsetry became more prevalent and reached its peak, with women tightly cinching their waists to achieve the coveted hourglass figure, which represented discipline and moral virtue. This garment transitioned from being a male article of clothing to becoming an essential component of women's attire. In the 1830s, corsets evolved to bind the hips in addition to the torso, thus impacting the bony pelvis, ribs, and viscera. This shift not noly influenced fashion and fabric cuts but also had implications for gynaecology, women's education, and feminist discourse. The Victorian corset was not solely a fashion accessory but also a tool for social control, reinforcing women's adherence to male-driven standards of beauty and decorum.
The upper-class had strict code of dressing to separate them from the rest of the society. Wearing a heavy decorative corset indicated a leisure lifestyle, where it suggested the wearer did not have to perform labour work and had time to spend maintaining her appearance.
AND SOCIAL CONTROL
In addition to its role in shaping ideals of beauty, the corset also had strong connotations of sexuality and control (Summers, 2001, Kunzle, 2006). These contradictory and mutually exclusive associations are part of what makes the corset such a fascinating subject of study. The corset lever the breasts to an appropriate angle and directs the gaze to the accentuated waist and hips while it exacted on the female body a severe toll (Summers, 2001). Victorian ideals of modesty were closely intertwined with notions of sexual repression, yet the exaggerated curves produced by corsetry often made women’s bodies the focal point of erotic desire. The corset thus occupied a paradoxical space, serving as a symbol of both moral propriety and sexual allure. This tension between modesty and sensuality reflected the complex ways in which patriarchal society sought to control women's bodies, particularly in terms of their sexuality and social roles.
Feminist Critique and the Demise of the Corset The early 20th century saw the rise of feminist critiques of the corset as a symbol of oppression. First-wave feminists argued that the corset reinforced unattainable beauty standards that were harmful to women’s physical health and personal freedom (Summers, 2001, Erkal, 2017). These critiques, combined with changing fashion trends, led to a decline in the popularity of the corset. females in the 1900s were corseted as tightly as they had never been before. It is said that one reason for the restriction of the female body through the use of corsetry might be that women liberation movements had peaked so now that women were getting stronger politically, they had to be restricted physically. Designers like Paul Poiret and Coco Chanel championed more relaxed silhouettes that allowed women greater freedom of movement and expression. By the 1920s, the corset had largely fallen out of mainstream fashion, replaced by clothing styles that prioritized comfort over rigid structure.
The selection of materials in sculpture goes beyond technical considerations, as it involves deeply symbolic choices that can convey complex meanings, particularly about themes such as limitation and control. Extensive research has been conducted into the symbolic meanings of various materials, such as metal, plastic, fabric, resin, and concrete, to understand their historical, cultural, and social connotations. Sculptors have utilized these materials to evoke specific emotions and metaphors, transforming the physical characteristics of these substances into carriers of meaning (Ashby and Johnson, 2013).
Throughout history, metal has been a symbol of strength, rigidity, and endurance, often representing power and industrialization. In modern and contemporary sculpture, metal can evoke a sence of confinement and restriction due to its weight and unyielding nature. Iron wire, particularly when employed to create cages, fences, or barriers, can serve as a symbol of imprisonment or social control, bringing to mind ideas of borders, enclosures, and limitations on freedom of movement. These concepts hold significant political weight in discussions about immigration, prison systems, and personal liberties (Surfaces Reporter, 2023). Artist Ai Weiwei harnessed the power of wire and metal to challenge state surveillance and oppression, crafting poignant political statements about government authority and individual rights.
Corsets have traditionally been worn as intimate underwear for shaping and posture, covered by outer clothing. The male gaze focuses on the appearances of the female, and the harm to the individual within is often overlooked. The installation intends to portray the struggle and deterioration of a person wearing a corset; plastic was considered the primary material for the corset part. Plastic has the quality of transparency, artificiality, and rigidness yet remains brittle. Clear plastic allows viewers to see what is inside or behind the corset. In a symbolic sense, it can represent exposure and disclose the damage inflicted on a female's body from the gaze. Due to its rigidness, plastic is sometimes used in the context of control or supervision, such as security barriers or cages. In the installation language, this can be associated with patriarchy's stringent aesthetic manifesto (Barthes, 1967) (Barnard, 2003).